Point Blank Range

The big question is what distance will you zero? There are a lot of factors to consider on this topic. Similar to the maximum point blank range for the rifle I want to know the maximum vertical spread without any shooter applied adjustments. In other words, if I were to make no adjustments or holds at what distance will the trajectory deliver the round out of the target zone. For the rifle, we use an 8 inch target zone, but for the pistol I want a 4 inch target zone and here’s why. The target zone size for our headshots is 4 inches and if I make no adjustments with certain zeros at certain distances I will miss. The magic number is 2 inches, I have 2 inches of vertical spread to play with when it comes to choosing a zero distance. If the point of aim remains constant, that means 2 inches high and 2 inches low for the point of impact. When the trajectory of a certain zero exceeds the point blank range within 0-25 yards it is inferior to those that do not. The most popular zeroes are 25 and 10 yards, with 15 yards gaining in popularity. The shift in point of impact at 5 yards and closer with these zeros is negligible with the main issue being the actual height of the optic. It is when we push out to further we can see issues.

Know Thyself

Next is how good of a shot are you when it comes to shooting your pistol. If you cannot shoot a tight group at your desired zero distance it doesn’t matter how good the zero distance is according to the internet. Which is why I will sometimes suggest the 10 yard zero, most shooters can repeatedly deliver 2″ groups at the 10 yard line. Thus allowing us to more quickly get to the meat of the curriculum. If the shooter can repeatedly deliver 4″ groups at the 25 yard line then I recommend they exploit as much of the red dot’s capability as possible. Regardless of which zero you choose, you must shoot at all ranges to see the difference in POA/POI. Typically, when I finish my zeroing procedures I will shoot 3 rounds at 20, 15, 10, and 5 yards to see the maximum vertical spread. If I have time, I will do the same at 35 and 50 yards.

Duty or Training Ammunition

Once you’ve settled on a zero distance, the next step is to actually zero the optic to the pistol. It is a good idea to bring the optic’s owner manual as a reference, along with any optic specific tools to the range. Ensure the optic is properly mounted and tightened to manufacture specifications. After you complete your zeroing process confirm the optic is still secure and apply witness marks to the mounting screws. Ideally, you will want to zero with the defensive or duty ammunition you will carry. My average zeroing session will require 20-25 rounds or 6-8 volleys to complete the process. It may seem like a waste, but I find it better to zero with my defensive ammunition then perform a range familiarization with my training ammunition. Typically, defensive ammunition is heavier, hotter and more precise. As a result, it will shoot to a different point of impact than the lighter and slower training ammunition. If we are trying to be as detailed as possible, this matters. Should you use a supported position to help eliminate shooter error? It depends. If you can get into a comfortable position while maintaining the straightest line of sight through the optic to the target then yes. If no, freestyle will have to work. If I don’t get the same head position when supported I see the dot differently and that can mess with my zeroing. And speaking of seeing the dot, make sure you are focused on the target. To help stay target focused lower the dot’s intensity when zeroing or rezeroing. Remember to return to your preferred intensity when finished and engage any button lockout features.

Windage First

Regardless of the zero distance I start with a spotter group at the 5 yard line. I know at the 5 yard line my impacts should be about 1.5 inches low for a 25 yard zero. If this is the first time mounting and zeroing said optic it can save you a lot of heartache and ammunition. You can use other methods such as a laser boresight, but I can’t get them to work in my micro compact pistols so I stick to this procedure for all my pistols. What I’m really looking for is windage. I want my windage to be dialed in super tight. I find when I start at the 5 yard line, any windage adjustments I have to make at the 25 yard line are minor. A quick note on groups, how many rounds should you fire? Again that depends on you and your accuracy capacity. If you are consistent, then 3 rounds is good. If you are still working on your consistency then 5 rounds gives you more of a buffer should you have some flyers. Now, here is where I make an argument for which zero distance is “better”. The corrective value of the optic. If I’m using an optic with a corrective value of 1MOA at 100 yards then at 25 yards, one click will adjust the impact ¼ inch. I can be very precise and quick. Same optic with a 10 yard zero will have a 1/10 corrective value. I don’t see the same level of precision with this distance for some reason. With other zeros there is a bit of a guessing game. Sometimes, you get to a point where it is good enough because the corrective value doesn’t cleanly fit.

The Devil Is In The Details

Once I get to the zero distance, the real work begins. Review the 5 Marksmanship Fundamental Principles and be as consistent as possible. Consistency is the key, the more consistent you are the more accuracy you can achieve. Here is one advantage for the 15 yard zero in my opinion. It is just far enough I can see the first and second groups before I have to go down range to tape. It can expedite the process, especially in large groups such as a class. Even then, I still prefer the 25 yard line. My process is pretty simple, I shoot and call as many shots as possible. Calling your shots is super important since it allows you to manage any flyers. If I call a shot and know one went high or wide, when I observe the target I’m looking for an impact in that general location. Then observe and measure the results. I measure from the center of the group and write down the distance to center. I suggest working with elevations first, windage should be close. I also suggest making corrections for only one direction at a time. I know this can be time consuming, but if we are dealing with major corrections, something larger than the point blank range it is a good idea to get one done at a time. Once I write down the distance in inches, I then convert to the number of clicks needed to adjust the point of impact. Again, this is where the 25 yard zero with a 1MOA optic really shines. Double check your work, then tape the target. Before you input the corrections, make sure you know the correct turret and direction for the desired input. This is why it is nice to write the corrections down, you don’t have to remember them. Plus, if you notice a massive shift in the wrong direction you can refer to your notes and help diagnose what happened. Perform the desired number of volleys until you are satisfied with the results.

Basic Maintenance

I like to confirm my zero about 2 or 3 times a year or if I change anything. If I replace the battery and have to remove the housing, then definitely. As far as how often to replace the battery. Read the owners manual regarding low battery alerts. I routinely replace the batteries in my primary carry and home defense pistols once a year. All other optics when necessary. If I have to use different type of defensive ammunition for whatever reason I re-zero or confirm the shift in POI. If you live in an area with extreme weather shifts you might want to rezero as the seasons change. I clean my optic’s window at least once a month, sometimes more depending on what’s happening. You would be amazed how much dirt, dust and other debris can build up on your lens. If it is an open optic it is a good idea to blow any loose debris out of the housing. The last thing I do is check the witness marks on the mounting screws. If I notice a shift of any amount I stop what I’m doing. Retighten the mounting screws to factory settings. Then at my first opportunity reconfirm the zero or if necessary rezero.

Zeroing is cathartic to me, I enjoy the process no matter the platform. It allows me to be very detailed oriented and while some may question the need, that alone is a major difference.

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The Baseline

There needs to be an understanding the basic standard is testing to evaluate knowledge and application of marksmanship fundamentals This is a baseline of sorts and ensures a known beginning. Take a moment to review the marksmanship fundamentals. This is the very minimum knowledge and application necessary to be successful. Without knowing and applying the five elements of marksmanship fundamentals, the shooter does not meet the minimum basic standard. Here is a list of marksmanship fundamentals in the proper sequence.

1. Position
2. Grip
3. Aiming
4. Trigger control
5. Follow through

Knowing Is Not Enough

Knowing the fundamentals is the first step and honestly the easiest. The hard part is applying them consistently. As we apply these elements they must be performed to a minimum standard for success. For position, the stance should be athletic and action biased. Have good balance and muscular tension throughout the body with a forward leaning posture. Grip places both hands optimally on the firearm to allow constant and firm tension, but does not interfere with trigger control. Aiming is made up of sight alignment and sight picture. Sight alignment is achieved when the front sight post is at the same height as the rear sight notch. Then equal spacing of the front sight post between the rear sight notch. Sight picture is superimposing sight alignment on the intended target and holding through the firing sequence. Trigger control starts with proper placement of the index finger so it contacts only the face of the trigger. When properly placed this allows the index finger to move the trigger straight to the rear with minimal disruption to aiming. Follow through is the active recovery of the firearm back on target with muscular tension. It begins the moment the projectile leaves the muzzle by returning the muzzle back to the target, then re-aiming the sights and finishes with resetting the trigger to allow trigger control to begin again if required. Knowing is not enough, consistently apply each of these five elements.

Basic Pistol Test

Use this drill to test the knowledge and application of the marksmanship fundamentals. It should be performed in the very beginning of a range session with no warm up. The goal is to score a 70% or higher, five times in a row to truly meet the minimum standard. Take a picture of the target and keep it as a reference for future range sessions. Print and use the TRICON B8 target to make it easier and the scoring consistent. The test is performed from the 10 yard line, requires 10 rounds and a timer. Use the timer on any mobile device, but set it for 7 seconds to allow time to safely hit start. If using a shot timer, set the par time for 5 seconds. There are four stages to this test, the last stage is the only stage performed from the holster, if allowed. If drawing from the holster is not allowed or lacking the knowledge, start from a tabled position. We define the ready position as both hands properly gripping the firearm with the trigger finger straight on the home position and the muzzle pointing downward at a 45 degree angle.

1. Aimed in on target, fire 1 round within 5 seconds
2. From ready position, fire 4 rounds within 5 seconds
3. From ready position, fire 3 rounds one handed within 5 seconds
4. From holster position, fire 2 rounds within 5 seconds

After completed the drill, score the target. Each round is 10 points for a maximum score of 100. If a round cuts the line, count it as the lower score. To score 70% means no more than missing a total of 30 points. Good luck.

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