Defining the Long Shot

Let’s all agree we are not talking about personal attacks that typically occur at close range if not extreme close range. We are talking about a gunfight at 35, 50 or 75 yards; maybe even further or the maximum effective range. Many are already bemoaning the need to take a shot at these ranges and they are not be wrong. Again, if what if the mission is the safety and security of these locations. What if the mission was to engage the bad guy at these extreme ranges in an effort to shift their mindset to survival mode. Many in law enforcement can find themselves in this situation as school resource officers or if they are the first responding officers on the scene of an active shooter. While first responders may have access to a rifle, school resources officers must deal with the attack from a “come as you are” war mindset. Meaning the rifle is secured in an office space away from the attack site and of little value.

An Origin Story

I’ve been in situations where distance was common, whether it was intentional such as an approach to a target or unintentional, being caught in bad situation and needing to beat feet. As a result, years ago we created and taught a class called Pistol Distance Shooting to address the issue of maximum effective range to units and organizations with a similar skill set requirement. It was the genesis of being in some tight spots and needing to push beyond the normal pistol shooting ranges. In the one day class we shot pistols out to 25, 35 & 50 yards standing. Then 75, 100 & 200 from prone. It was a great class on truly understanding marksmanship principles. Some argue it is not realistic and again they would be right. Unless there is an attack while in a mall, school or store with terrain greater than your normal training distances. What training and standards exist for this mission. To be honest, there really are none. It could be reckless, maybe even irresponsible to not at least practice to better understand the challenges of these extreme ranges.

Understanding the Distance Challenges

What is the secret to shooting at these extreme ranges? There are two buckets, gear and skill. To do this well will require the right gear. Back then, I ran those classes with a high-end full size 1911 with adjustable sights. My zero was 35 yards and it allowed me to hit out to 100 yards relatively easily. That’s where the fun ended. Beyond that and it is extremely difficult. But, what about in today’s environment with red dot sights (RDS) on pistols? I’m not saying it is easy, but it is more likely to be achievable for shooters with less than advanced skills. This is where gear has narrowed the playing field. Each year I shot out to 100 yards with my pistol more as a reminder of humility than preparedness. In the process it has greatly improved many other facets of my skill set. Match ammunition is an option, but to be honest I doubt it will help without the use of a RDS. A match grade pistol is also not entirely necessary. I have some really high end match pistols that I love, but my annual humbling is with my carry pistol. That is sometimes my P365 xl or xMacro, both with short barrels.

It’s All About Technique

Taking a stand falls in the realm of skill and capability. Here, I break it up into two smaller buckets; freestyle and supported. Freestyle being standing and supported being prone or some other supported position. Both will require a higher than average attention to detail. The RDS really shines in this regard. At these extreme distances I’m doing less thinking about sights and more thinking about trigger control. Really understanding the sear wall is a huge benefit. The next skill to develop is using holds. To get a good hit on a target at 50, 75 or 100 requires adjusting the point of aim. There are too many variables to list, but suffice it to say aim higher. This is where practice provides the insight and skill to be effective. For those wondering, a sub 2 inch group at 25 yards will generally produce a 6 inch group at 50 yards and 10 inch group at the 100 yard. I’ve attacked this problem from several different angles, but this seems to be a good rule of thumb. All bets are off if holding a decent group at 25 yards is not possible. Even with no true mission requirement for this skill set, I still encourage all decent shooters to play with the 50 yard line as their maximum effective range. The first time I put a decent group at the 50 yard line was a true watershed moment for my capabilities.

Getting to the 100 Yard Range

How to train at these extreme distances requires a little preparation. Without knowing the bullet’s flight path, use a flyer sheet. This is the sheet of paper used to collect the data on a missed shot. To do this, I invert one of our TCT Mk4 targets so the head is at the bottom. Then affix it to the hanging target with glue to give me 36 inches of vertical drop. If my point of aim is off the primary target, the flyer sheet will catch it and I can make an adjustment. The flyer sheet is really not needed until maybe 75, but 100 and further for sure. My biggest complaint is not having convenient access to more than 100 yards for pistol work. Most of the time, if I’m going to a 100 plus yard facility, I’m working on my rifle. The last pro tip to fast track learning is to collect data. So, create a DOPE log or Data On Previous Engagement. For me, what I do is take a picture of the target with the point of aim along with the point of impact. This allows me to start my newest session without repeating some of the past mistakes. I don’t spend too much time here, maybe a total of 50 rounds from 35-100 yards. I will admit it is challenging, but also very rewarding.

To those who must defend our national treasures, I hope there is the means to improve the gear and skill.

The post Maximum Effective Range of a Pistol & Training appeared first on Trident Concepts.

Know The Basics

The first detail has to do with understanding the principles of marksmanship. No matter what, they do not change. What changes is the precision with which each of the principles is applied. In this case, the level of precision is high; which means I need to have a fine application of trigger control versus a rough application for close range shots. This flexing is something all shooters must develop. The earlier you learn this flexing, the better your performance. It is great to practice drills that stress the metering of this trigger control. Where on the one hand, you need rough trigger control then immediately slip into fine trigger control.

How Fast Is Too Fast

With a thorough understanding of the principles of marksmanship you can move at various speeds. We break things down into three speeds, full, half & slow speed. It is at slow speed learning takes place. If you want to be super accurate you need to start at slow speed. This allows you to tighten up your movement precision. The flexing mentioned earlier is only achievable when you can recognize the need. Within the slow speed you have the opportunity to improve the necessary movements to achieve the level of accuracy performance you want. This is not to say all movement is at slow speed, you learn where you can go fast, but more importantly where you need to go slow.

Scale For Better Learning

Starting close and working out to extended ranges is the next key detail. Jumping right to the 25 yard line or beyond is like putting too much weight on the barbell and hoping for a good outcome. It is more luck than skill. Starting at closer ranges helps to build confidence. You also get to appreciate the importance of the details and see how they are negatively impacted when you cannot stay focused. When you are accurate and able to achieve a minimum score of say 80% then increasing the distance makes sense. You keep reaching further and further by building a solid foundation. It is not a bad idea to periodically push out to further distances, just don’t start there.

Be Accountable

Having observable and measurable standards is the next key detail. You need to start keeping score if you haven’t done so up to this point. It is great to pick a simple drill, make one up or research the numerous drills online. Work this drill over time to see if you are making improvements. When you see your score repeatable then you know learning is taking place. It keeps you honest and holds you accountable. Without standards, you are spinning your wheels. There are so many ways to score, but the most common is based around a point system along with a par time. In the beginning I suggest skipping the timed components. Focus on being accurate and improving your score, then add par times.

Find a Rival to Help Grow

The last key detail is to work with partner or friend. Bring someone along to help you or for you to help. There is so much good that happens when we put in the work on our own, but there is an equal amount of positive growth that occurs when you work with others. If you cannot find someone who can go with you physically to the range, consider working virtually. With today’s technology there is no reason you cannot up the game by doing it all via a video conferencing/calls. Even if you cannot do a virtual range session together, comparing notes on a regular basis and sharing progress or problems is still a great approach.

Following this tips will do wonders for your level of precision. We will work on sharing some of our sessions online to help build a framework for others to follow.

The post The Art of Being Accurate & Precise appeared first on Trident Concepts.

Point Blank Range

The big question is what distance will you zero? There are a lot of factors to consider on this topic. Similar to the maximum point blank range for the rifle I want to know the maximum vertical spread without any shooter applied adjustments. In other words, if I were to make no adjustments or holds at what distance will the trajectory deliver the round out of the target zone. For the rifle, we use an 8 inch target zone, but for the pistol I want a 4 inch target zone and here’s why. The target zone size for our headshots is 4 inches and if I make no adjustments with certain zeros at certain distances I will miss. The magic number is 2 inches, I have 2 inches of vertical spread to play with when it comes to choosing a zero distance. If the point of aim remains constant, that means 2 inches high and 2 inches low for the point of impact. When the trajectory of a certain zero exceeds the point blank range within 0-25 yards it is inferior to those that do not. The most popular zeroes are 25 and 10 yards, with 15 yards gaining in popularity. The shift in point of impact at 5 yards and closer with these zeros is negligible with the main issue being the actual height of the optic. It is when we push out to further we can see issues.

Know Thyself

Next is how good of a shot are you when it comes to shooting your pistol. If you cannot shoot a tight group at your desired zero distance it doesn’t matter how good the zero distance is according to the internet. Which is why I will sometimes suggest the 10 yard zero, most shooters can repeatedly deliver 2″ groups at the 10 yard line. Thus allowing us to more quickly get to the meat of the curriculum. If the shooter can repeatedly deliver 4″ groups at the 25 yard line then I recommend they exploit as much of the red dot’s capability as possible. Regardless of which zero you choose, you must shoot at all ranges to see the difference in POA/POI. Typically, when I finish my zeroing procedures I will shoot 3 rounds at 20, 15, 10, and 5 yards to see the maximum vertical spread. If I have time, I will do the same at 35 and 50 yards.

Duty or Training Ammunition

Once you’ve settled on a zero distance, the next step is to actually zero the optic to the pistol. It is a good idea to bring the optic’s owner manual as a reference, along with any optic specific tools to the range. Ensure the optic is properly mounted and tightened to manufacture specifications. After you complete your zeroing process confirm the optic is still secure and apply witness marks to the mounting screws. Ideally, you will want to zero with the defensive or duty ammunition you will carry. My average zeroing session will require 20-25 rounds or 6-8 volleys to complete the process. It may seem like a waste, but I find it better to zero with my defensive ammunition then perform a range familiarization with my training ammunition. Typically, defensive ammunition is heavier, hotter and more precise. As a result, it will shoot to a different point of impact than the lighter and slower training ammunition. If we are trying to be as detailed as possible, this matters. Should you use a supported position to help eliminate shooter error? It depends. If you can get into a comfortable position while maintaining the straightest line of sight through the optic to the target then yes. If no, freestyle will have to work. If I don’t get the same head position when supported I see the dot differently and that can mess with my zeroing. And speaking of seeing the dot, make sure you are focused on the target. To help stay target focused lower the dot’s intensity when zeroing or rezeroing. Remember to return to your preferred intensity when finished and engage any button lockout features.

Windage First

Regardless of the zero distance I start with a spotter group at the 5 yard line. I know at the 5 yard line my impacts should be about 1.5 inches low for a 25 yard zero. If this is the first time mounting and zeroing said optic it can save you a lot of heartache and ammunition. You can use other methods such as a laser boresight, but I can’t get them to work in my micro compact pistols so I stick to this procedure for all my pistols. What I’m really looking for is windage. I want my windage to be dialed in super tight. I find when I start at the 5 yard line, any windage adjustments I have to make at the 25 yard line are minor. A quick note on groups, how many rounds should you fire? Again that depends on you and your accuracy capacity. If you are consistent, then 3 rounds is good. If you are still working on your consistency then 5 rounds gives you more of a buffer should you have some flyers. Now, here is where I make an argument for which zero distance is “better”. The corrective value of the optic. If I’m using an optic with a corrective value of 1MOA at 100 yards then at 25 yards, one click will adjust the impact ¼ inch. I can be very precise and quick. Same optic with a 10 yard zero will have a 1/10 corrective value. I don’t see the same level of precision with this distance for some reason. With other zeros there is a bit of a guessing game. Sometimes, you get to a point where it is good enough because the corrective value doesn’t cleanly fit.

The Devil Is In The Details

Once I get to the zero distance, the real work begins. Review the 5 Marksmanship Fundamental Principles and be as consistent as possible. Consistency is the key, the more consistent you are the more accuracy you can achieve. Here is one advantage for the 15 yard zero in my opinion. It is just far enough I can see the first and second groups before I have to go down range to tape. It can expedite the process, especially in large groups such as a class. Even then, I still prefer the 25 yard line. My process is pretty simple, I shoot and call as many shots as possible. Calling your shots is super important since it allows you to manage any flyers. If I call a shot and know one went high or wide, when I observe the target I’m looking for an impact in that general location. Then observe and measure the results. I measure from the center of the group and write down the distance to center. I suggest working with elevations first, windage should be close. I also suggest making corrections for only one direction at a time. I know this can be time consuming, but if we are dealing with major corrections, something larger than the point blank range it is a good idea to get one done at a time. Once I write down the distance in inches, I then convert to the number of clicks needed to adjust the point of impact. Again, this is where the 25 yard zero with a 1MOA optic really shines. Double check your work, then tape the target. Before you input the corrections, make sure you know the correct turret and direction for the desired input. This is why it is nice to write the corrections down, you don’t have to remember them. Plus, if you notice a massive shift in the wrong direction you can refer to your notes and help diagnose what happened. Perform the desired number of volleys until you are satisfied with the results.

Basic Maintenance

I like to confirm my zero about 2 or 3 times a year or if I change anything. If I replace the battery and have to remove the housing, then definitely. As far as how often to replace the battery. Read the owners manual regarding low battery alerts. I routinely replace the batteries in my primary carry and home defense pistols once a year. All other optics when necessary. If I have to use different type of defensive ammunition for whatever reason I re-zero or confirm the shift in POI. If you live in an area with extreme weather shifts you might want to rezero as the seasons change. I clean my optic’s window at least once a month, sometimes more depending on what’s happening. You would be amazed how much dirt, dust and other debris can build up on your lens. If it is an open optic it is a good idea to blow any loose debris out of the housing. The last thing I do is check the witness marks on the mounting screws. If I notice a shift of any amount I stop what I’m doing. Retighten the mounting screws to factory settings. Then at my first opportunity reconfirm the zero or if necessary rezero.

Zeroing is cathartic to me, I enjoy the process no matter the platform. It allows me to be very detailed oriented and while some may question the need, that alone is a major difference.

The post Zeroing a Pistol Mounted Optic appeared first on Trident Concepts.